Salt Pans of Gozo at Xwejni Bay: A Visitor’s Guide

Visiting the spectacular salt pans of Gozo offers a glimpse into a significant part of Gozo’s heritage.  Located at Xwejni Bay, salt production on Gozo is a craft that has withstood the test of time and is continued by the local families who harvest this white gold today.

To produce the salt, the Mediterranean’s sun works tirelessly, coaxing salt from seawater, leaving behind glistening white crystals, set against the stunning natural beauty of Gozo’s northern coast.

Whether you’re a photographer seeking the perfect shot, a history buff on the trail of ancient crafts, or a traveller looking for a unique souvenir, the salt pans of Gozo beckon.  They provide a window into the island’s past and present, making them a must-visit for anyone traveling to Gozo.

Join me as we delve into a guide to this iconic landscape.

Some posts on this site contain affiliate links to products or services I’ve found useful. If you make a purchase through these links I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). This helps keep the travel blog running, so thank you.

Salt pans of Gozo – a traditional craft

Salt might seem like a regular staple of most kitchen tables these days, but it was so precious at one time that it was used as a form of currency.

To harvest the salt, sea water is poured into the salt pans and the sun is left to do its work of evaporating the water and leaving just the salt.

Malta has an ideal climate for this kind of produce, as it experiences sun for most of the year.

Collecting the individual piles of crystalline brilliance requires hard physical work under the baking Maltese sun.  The salt has to be brushed into the centre of the pans and collected before the wind has a chance to render all that work useless.

Once collected, the salt is taken to a flat surface for further drying out.  Once ready, it’s packed up, stored and ready to be bought and sold.  Local families are still making salt in Gozo today.

How old are the salt pans in Gozo?

The current artisanal production of salt on Gozo takes place using the salt pans on the northern coast.  It’s a tradition dating back 350 years and there are indications that that Gozitan salt harvesting was going on as far back as Roman times. 

When can you see the Gozo salt pans?

The salt pan formations are a year-round attraction in Gozo, as they are made of rock, they’re an ancient fixture and just one of the reasons to visit Malta.  So you can visit to experience the views at any time.  It’s a great location to stop if you’re only visiting Gozo in one day.

However, the salt production itself generally happens in the summer months between May to September only.  If you want to actually witness the salt being harvested you’ll need to plan to visit during this time.  The production of salt using this traditional method is subject to changes in weather, which may alter the exact period of harvesting from year to year. 

If you’ve got limited time, book one of the best Gozo tours to make sure you see as much of this gorgeous island as possible.

Where are the salt pans in Gozo located?

Xwejni Bay

The main salt pans to visit on Gozo are located to the west of Xwejni Bay on the north coast of Gozo island.

As well as the Xwejni salt pans, there are also older, disused, salt pans at Salinas de Qolla I-Bajda, on the east of Xwejni Bay.

These salt pans have a different shape to the ones still in use.  They’re more haphazard and rounder in form.  As such, they make a great back drop for photos. 

Don’t miss taking a look around this area and at the 18^th Century Qolla l-Bajda Battery building whilst you’re visiting the Gozo salt pans.

I’ve enjoyed trips cycling and walking all along this part of the Gozo coast and admiring the Gozo salt pans and moon-like scenery so unique to Gozo.

Where to buy salt crystals produced in Gozo?

You can purchase the salt as a unique souvenir of your trip to view the salt pans of Gozo.  Get it from the local producers directly in their family shop, situated in a small cave opposite the salt pans.  They also sell the salt on the side of the road sometimes.

As well as making a purchase whilst at the salt pans, you can also visit the Cini family website and buy one of their Xwejni sea salt products.

A small bag of salt in a burlap bag costs from €4.

Pro tip: the Maltese word for salt is ‘Melh’.  Although you don’t actually need to use this word when in Gozo, as English is also an official language of Malta.

How do you get to the salt pans in Gozo?

There are many ways to get around Gozo and its small size makes it perfect for travelling without a car.  It’s easy to include time on Gozo as part of any Malta itinerary.

Bus

Take bus #310 from Victoria bus station to the stop at Xwejni.  Travel time is 20 minutes.  Travelling Malta and Gozo by public transport is a great way to get around.

Walk or bike

You can walk or bike from Victoria to the Gozo salt pans at Xwejni Bay.  Walking takes an hour and a quarter and cycling about half that time.

Hiking on Gozo is one of my favourite things to do.  You can enjoy views across the Gozo countryside as you step out across the island.

Car or scooter

Gozo is a fun place to hire a scooter to quickly head around the island. 

Alternatively, you can hire a car on Gozo instead.  Discover Cars is a great site to compare car hire prices.  Malta and Gozo are typically cheaper for car hire than many places in Europe. 

Taxi or app

If you don’t want to drive but want to get around Gozo quickly you can take a taxi or use one of the apps.  Uber and Bolt both work on Gozo. 

Photographing the Gozo salt pans

The salt pans in Gozo are a beautiful sight to behold and just one of the photogenic spots on Gozo.  The view across the geometric shapes creates a pleasing repetitive pattern to the eye.

You can use this satisfying aesthetic to provide inspiration for your photos of Gozo.  Explore the salt pans all along the coast and capture their changing form. 

Pro tip: don’t walk into the salt pans that are still in use.  There are signs up warning about this.

Getting to Gozo

It’s easy to get to Gozo from the island of Malta.  There are two ferry routes. 

The fastest and most convenient route from the south of Malta leaves from Valletta.   I enjoyed travelling along the Maltese coastline on this fast service.  You can take your bags onboard.  This is a popular route so buy your tickets in advance and avoid having to queue.

A return ticket from Valletta to Gozo costs from £13 for adults (correct as at 2024). 

If you’re staying in the North of Malta, or want to take a car over with you, you’ll need to get the ferry to Gozo from Cirkewwa.  This costs from €4.65.

Wrap up: salt pans of Gozo

A visit to see the salt pans in Gozo is a wonderful slow travel activity.  You can take time to walk along the lunar-like northern Gozo coastline and let your mind be lulled into an almost trance-like state by the repeating patterns of the salt pans.

After all that salt, you might want to soak yourself in some of the lovely Gozo sea.  If you’re feeling adventurous, head to Wied il Ghasri inlet for a rocky swim in sapphire waters.

For a more sedate beach experience, go over to the golden sands of Ramla Bay, or pick another of the best beaches in Gozo.  I suggest you avoid visiting nearby Marsalforn as it’s not the best beach area on Gozo.

Don’t forget to head over to Comino to experience the shimmering waters of the Blue Lagoon.