Portoferraio Guide: Best Things to See and Do (Elba)
Portoferraio is the capital and main port of Elba Island, part of the Tuscan Archipelago. It is a town that combines history, culture, nature, and adventure. Whether you’re interested in exploring ancient fortresses, visiting Napoleon’s house or enjoying idyllic beaches, Portoferraio has something for everyone.
As a seasoned independent traveller with over 20 years’ experience of travelling to Italy and beyond, and having explored all over Portoferraio and Elba, I’ll share with you the top things to do, hidden gems and practical tips on how to get around.
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How to Get to Portoferraio
Ferries from Piombino, on the Italian mainland, to Portoferraio run frequently and the journey time is around an hour. Although there are no airports in Piombino, it’s easy to reach by train or car from Pisa, which does have an airport.
I loved the ferry journey, as it offers stunning views. Don’t miss a chance to head out on deck and watch the imposing sight of Portoferraio’s fortifications come into view as you arrive.
Things to Do: Top Attractions in Portoferraio
Relax on a Paradise Beach
The beaches of Portoferraio are the main attraction of a stay here. Relax, sunbathe and swim in clear turquoise waters that wouldn’t look out of place in the Caribbean. The string of beaches along Portoferraio’s coast is ideal if you travel without a car, as I do, due to the ease with which you can reach them all.
The top beaches that you must include on a trip to Portoferraio are:
Capo Bianco
Capo Bianco is my idea of paradise. Smooth white pebbles, azure sea and space to stretch out. Pure bliss.
Sansone
Located 7 km from the town centre, Sansone is a great choice if you enjoy water sports as you can kayak or SUP around the headland from here.
Padulella
The beautiful Padulella beach is so close to the centre of Portoferraio that it’s an absolute must for any trip. The beach is part of the designated Elba biosphere, which means that it has lots of vibrant fish to see, perfect for snorkelers and nature enthusiasts.
Pro Tip: Beware of the seagulls at Portoferraio, I caught one attempting to steal a pair of shoes.
Visit Napoleon’s Homes
Despite spending less than a year exiled on Elba, Napoleon had multiple residences. The main property, the Villa dei Mulini, is located in the heart of Portoferraio, at the top of a steep road.
On my visit, there was a short queue to enter but it moved quickly. You can see why Napoleon picked this location. The views from his quarters across the bright blue Tyrrhenian Sea are a sight to behold. It’s also strategically placed between the two Forts of Forte di Stella and Forte Falcone.
The gardens are a particularly peaceful place to wander. There’s not a huge amount to see inside the house but I enjoyed the library, still full of Napoleon’s personal collection of books.
Snippets of information are provided in English, Italian, French and German. Entry fee is €6, cash only.
If you crave more Napoleonic history, head out to the Villa di San Martino, Napoleon’s summer house on the outskirts of Portoferraio, on via di San Martino. There’s a bus stop 5 minutes’ walk from the property (bus #1, journey time is 15 minutes).
Explore the Old Town and Medici Forts
One of the best ways to experience Portoferraio is to wander around its 16th century Old Town. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time as you admire the elegant architecture and wind your way up uneven streets to visit the ancient fortress walls.
Pro Tip: Many people on Elba speak English, but not all, so use your trip to Portoferraio as an opportunity to brush up on a few Italian basics before you go.
Medici Fortresses
Portoferraio is home to three imposing fortifications that dominate the skyline. They were built by Cosimo I de’ Medici, the powerful Grand Duke of Tuscany, to protect the town from pirate attacks.
Visit the Forte Stella the Forte Falcone and the Linguella Tower (Torre del Martello). Whilst I was a bit disappointed that there’s not more to see in the actual forts themselves, it’s worth visiting for the wonderful panoramic views of the sea and the town.
If you’re after yet more forts, there’s also the lesser-known 18th century Forte Inglese which was restored in recent years and can now be visited once again. Opening times vary and are typically in the late afternoon or early evening. Check the Info Park website for the latest details.
Pro Tip: If you’re planning on visiting several sights in Portoferraio, get the Cosmopoli card for €15 to save money. Head to the ticket office at the corner of Via Vittorio Emanuele II by the Forte di Medici to get hold of one.
Visit a Roman Villa and Archaeological Museum
For a unique and fascinating way to explore the history and culture of Elba, don’t miss the opportunity to visit the remains of Roman villas and the archaeological museum in Portoferraio.
The Villa Romana delle Grotte
The Villa Romana delle Grotte is located out of the centre of Portoferraio, off Strada Provinciale 26. This impressive Roman villa dates back to the 1st century BC.
The villa was built on a rocky slope, overlooking the sea and the bay of Portoferraio, with a large outdoor terrace. There’s also a free audio guide in English, German or Italian.
To get to the Villa Romana delle Grotte, either walk or take the 15 minute bus ride (#116, #117 or #2).
Opening times: Monday to Saturday, 5 pm to 8 pm, Fridays 9.30 am to 12.30 pm.
Entrance fee: €5
The Villa della Linguella and Museo Archeologico,
This Roman villa and Museo Archeologico are located by the octagonal Linguella Tower at the end of the promontory of Portoferraio’s harbour. They are temporarily closed, as of early 2024.
Italo Bolano Open Air Museum
Fans of contemporary art will love this unique museum that showcases the works of Italo Bolano, an Elban artist who created sculptures, paintings, and installations using natural materials and recycled objects.
The museum is located in an outdoor park. Wander the grounds and admire the colourful creations of Bolano, who was inspired by the island’s landscape, history, and culture. Check the website for the latest opening times.
To get here, walk or take bus #1 from the centre of Portoferraio.
Teatro dei Vigilanti “Renato Cioni”
For a touch of culture, head to Teatro dei Vigilanti “Renato Cioni”. This elegant 19th-century theatre is a hidden jewel in the heart of Portoferraio.
The theatre was built by Napoleon on the site of a deconsecrated church. It was restored in the 20th century and re-named after Renato Cioni, a famous tenor from Elba.
Day Trips from Portoferraio
Elba is a vibrant island with plenty to do, so once you’ve seen the main sights in Portoferraio, check out some of the nearby activities.
Hike Monte Enfola
Take bus, #6, or walk from the centre of Portoferraio to visit the Parco Nazionale dell’ Arcipelago Toscano at Monte Enfola. Explore old war bunkers as you hike. They’re very dark, so bring a torch. Continue out to the peninsula, Capo d’Enfola, for incredible views and the fragrant smells of the pine forest.
Most of the walk is easy but a short part of the section before Capo d’Enfola requires a scramble down some rocks. There’s a small rope to hold on to. I ended up doing it in flip flops and got a cut knee to show for my foolishness. Don’t be me. Trainers or walking shoes are much better suited to the terrain.
Rent a Bike and Visit the Secluded Eastern Beaches and Capoliveri
Let me share with you a secret about Elba. Yes, the beaches in Portoferraio are outstanding and you must visit them. However, during peak summer they get very busy. I discovered that the southeast of the island is a haven of wild beaches with far fewer visitors.
Rent a bike at the bus station in Portoferraio. Head out of the town on the road to Capoliveri then continue on the bike park green route to explore the south-eastern coast.
Refuel on ice cream at Gelateria L’Angolo, in Capoliveri. Try the basil and lemon flavour, which I thought was worth the bike ride alone. The onward trip to Ferrato beach takes a further half an hour. From here you can complete the circular green route.
My own two-wheeled odyssey was thrown off course by the unexpected closure of key roads for an Elba car rally event and resulted in me taking a cross-country detour through frankly horrifically difficult terrain.
Provided that doesn’t happen to you, your journey should be less difficult but still offer a challenging ride and the reward of stunning, secluded beaches where you can revel in being away from the usual tourist trails.
Climb Monte Capanne
If you’ve got a head for heights, don’t miss a trip to visit Elba’s highest mountain, Monte Capanne. Take the bright yellow cable car basket up and hike down for a fantastic day out.
Tickets cost €13 one way.
Festivals and Cultural Events
On 15th August the Ferragosto Elbano is celebrated in Poroferraio and across Elba. This date marks the Feast of the Assumption and is also the birthday of Napoleon. Celebrations include fireworks displays and musical entertainment.
The Festival Elba Isola Musicale d’Europa is an international music festival which takes place each year on Elba. The festival typically takes place at the end of August and the beginning of September.
Where to Eat in Portoferraio
From family-friendly trattorias to up-market restaurants, there’s plenty of choice in Portoferraio. Typical dishes to try include:
- Gurguglione – a vegetable-based stew made with peppers, aubergines, tomatoes, onions, garlic, basil, and olive oil.
- Sburrita – a fish soup made with spices and vegetables.
- Schiaccia briaca – a traditional local sweet with a base of dried fruit, nuts, honey, and aleatico, a red wine grape that grows on Elba.
Here are the top spots where local ingredients shine, providing a genuine taste of the island:
Teatro Restaurant
Located on a quiet square with expansive views over the old town of Portoferraio the wonderful Teatro has a small menu, which means the meals are done very well.
Lemon and fish pasta was a huge hit with ‘Mi Amor’, as was the Panacotta with fruits of the forest sauce. Deliziosa.
Da Gianni
For fish so fresh you can look it in the eye as it’s brought to the table for you to inspect. The pasta ‘ears’ with various sauces is the speciality here and is very tasty.
Vino Vino
Situated in the buzz of the square in the Old Town this is a great spot to take in the evening port atmosphere after a stroll oggling at the super yachts. Ahh to dream.
Budget Option: Pizza at Tres Archi
Slightly out of the centre of Portoferraio but worth the walk. Pizzas cost from €7.
If you come on a busy Saturday night, marvel at how fast these guys work. This is a finely tuned pizza operation.
Best Gelato in Portoferraio
Do as the Italians do and grab an evening gelato from Zero Gradi gelateria and stroll the harbour front and old town.
There’s a dazzling array of homemade flavours, and on my extensive taste tests they were all delicious.
How to Get Around Portoferraio
You don’t need a car to get around Portoferraio. It’s easy to walk, bike or bus to the main attractions.
As someone who travels without a car, I found the logistical juggling act of a variety of ways to get around were all part of the experience in Portoferraio. However, if you do want to hire a car in Elba that’s also an option.
Buses
Tips on how to travel by bus in Portoferraio, based on my personal experience:
- Buy your tickets in advance from a shop, or the app. It’s cheaper than buying on the bus.
- A daily ticket costs from €11.10 and allows you to travel all over Elba.
- Validate your ticket in the machine when you board the bus to avoid a fine.
- There’s a left luggage place at the Info Park office at the bus station which I used. Prices are from €3 per hour.
- Visit Autolinee Toscane for up-to-date timetables and the app.
Bike Rental
Biking around Elba is popular, in fact it has its own ‘bike park’. Don’t forget to make key bike rental checks.
Go to the main bus station on Viale Elba and rent from the bike shop there. The battery on the bike I rented lasted a whole day (just). The price is from €40 per day.
Where to Stay in Portoferraio
Portoferraio offers accommodation for every budget. Here are three of the best:
Belvedere Residenza Mediterranea is a highly-rated residence with a lovely garden and an outdoor pool to unwind in.
Hotel Villa Ottone is a 5-star hotel located in front of the sea, surrounded by beautiful parkland with a private beach, a pool, a tennis court, and a wellness centre.
Porto Sole Rooms are located overlooking the harbour of Portoferraio. Wi-Fi and air conditioning are included, which is not always the case for apartments in Elba.
Conclusion: Portoferraio Guide: Best Things to See and Do
Whether you’re drawn to vibrant historic streets or pristine beaches, you’ll glimpse the authentic side of Italian island life with a trip to Portoferraio. Now, to decide your next move – perhaps a trek into the island’s interior or a ferry ride to explore nearby attractions at Piombino.