Lake Skadar Montenegro Guide: How to Visit Without a Car
Lake Skadar in Montenegro is one of the easiest inland escapes to add to a Montenegro trip, especially if you’re travelling without a car. Also called Skadar Lake or Shkodra Lake, it sits on the border with Albania and is a place of vast horizons, boat trips through water lilies, quiet villages and birdlife.
I visited Lake Skadar as part of my car-free journey around Montenegro, travelling by bus and train to Virpazar. It was one of the highlights of my trip because the experiences here felt worlds away from the busier coast around Budva and Kotor.
In this guide, I’ll show you how to visit Lake Skadar without a car, where to stay, how to get there, what to do in Virpazar, and whether it’s worth adding to your Montenegro itinerary.
Lake Skadar travel essentials
🛏️ Best base: Virpazar, especially if you’re travelling without a car. I stayed at Hotel De’Andros, which has a gorgeous rooftop pool overlooking the lake.
🛶 Best thing to do: Take a boat trip through the water lilies and wetlands. Book the same private boat tour I loved.
📅 How long to spend: One day is enough for the lake, but two to three days is better as it gives you time for exploring local hikes and other activities like kayaking.
🌿 Best for: Nature, birdlife, boat trips, kayaking and peaceful scenery.
🍹 Not ideal for: Travellers who want nightlife and parties.
🚂 Car-free rating: Easy and cheap to reach by train and bus if you base yourself in Virpazar.
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How many days do you need at Lake Skadar?
You can visit Lake Skadar as a day trip if you only want to take a boat trip from Virpazar. If you’re short on time, one day is enough to get a quick snapshot of the area, see the wetlands and enjoy the scenery from the water.
However, I strongly recommend staying for two to three days if you’re travelling independently. The extra days give you time for a boat trip, a hike to the brilliant Dupilo waterfalls and kayaking on the lake. It also gives you a bit of flexibility in case the weather turns.
I was glad not to have rushed this part of Montenegro, because Lake Skadar is a place where slowing down and taking it all in is half the point.
Best time to visit Lake Skadar
The best time to visit Lake Skadar is usually spring, early summer or early autumn, when the weather is warm enough for boat trips and outdoor activities, but not as hot or busy as peak summer.
Spring is a lovely time for birdlife, greenery and walking, while early summer is a good choice if you want warmer weather, water lilies and the chance to swim in the lake. July and August can get very hot, especially if you’re hiking, cycling or waiting around for public transport.
Autumn is another good option, particularly if you prefer quieter trips and easier temperatures. Just be aware that poor weather can affect boat trips, kayaking and hiking, so it’s worth building in a little flexibility if Lake Skadar is a key part of your Montenegro itinerary.
Is Lake Skadar worth visiting without a car?
Yes, Lake Skadar is worth visiting without a car, especially if you’re happy to base yourself in Virpazar and focus on boat trips, walking, kayaking and local scenery.
Virpazar is one of the easiest places to visit on Lake Skadar without driving. You can reach it by train and bus from places like Podgorica, Sutomore and Budva, and once you’re there, boat trips leave from the village itself.
That said, travelling without a car does come with a few limits. Places such as Pavlova Strana and some smaller lakeside villages are harder to reach independently. If those are your priorities, a tour, taxi or private transfer might make more sense.
For me, Lake Skadar worked really well without a car. Staying in Virpazar meant I could enjoy the wide-open views, water lilies and activities I’d come for.
How to get to Lake Skadar
Budva to Lake Skadar by bus and train
One of the easiest and most memorable ways to get to Lake Skadar is by train to Virpazar. I arrived this way and the journey was a highlight in itself.
I took the bus from Budva to Sutomore (45 minutes) then walked 5 minutes to the Sutomore train station and took a train to Virpazar (15 minutes). It was quick, cheap and fun.
The train was an old-school model, covered in graffiti on the outside, huge and clunky, with great big comfy seats on the inside. The views along the way were fantastic, a snapshot of rural Montenegro.
I’ve done a lot of train travel all over Europe and the UK, as I travel without a car. Compared with some of the more modern trains I’ve taken in Italy and Spain, this one felt less polished but much more unique. The whole trip cost less than a couple of euros, which is a total bargain.
That said, I’d avoid the toilets. The less said about those, the better.
When you arrive at Virpazar train station, don’t expect much in the way of facilities. It feels more or less abandoned with a few worn-looking buildings. But from here, you can walk to the main Lake Skadar area where most people stay.
Virpazar train station: important walking tip
I made the mistake of walking all the way from the Virpazar train station to the lake via the main road. It’s treacherous, with no pavement and cars whizzing by. I only found out on the way back that you can cross the railway line and follow a quiet cross-country route that brings you out near the lake. See the map below for where the turning for this route is located.
Lake Skadar from Kotor
To get to Lake Skadar from Kotor you take the bus to Sutomore (1.5 hours) and take the train to Virpazar from there (15 minutes).
Check bus times and prices at busticket4.me.
Alternatively you could book this day tour from Kotor that includes transport to Lake Skadar, a boat trip and a stop at Sveti Stefan.
Podgorica to Lake Skadar
From Podgorica, take the train to Virpazar. The journey is short, half an hour, and cheap, making Lake Skadar one of the easiest places to visit from the capital if you’re travelling without a car.
Check the latest train times before you travel, as services can vary by season and day of the week. There’s also a bus from Podgorica to Virpazar, if the train times don’t suit.
Lake Skadar entrance fee
Lake Skadar is part of Lake Skadar National Park, so you’ll usually need to pay the national park entrance fee for activities on the lake, including boat tours and kayaking. The Lake Skadar National Park entrance fee in 2026 is €5 per day.
It’s worth checking whether this is included when you book a boat trip or kayak hire, as some operators may add it separately.
Things to do around Lake Skadar
Take a private boat tour of Lake Skadar
Taking a private boat tour is one of the best things to do on Lake Skadar. I visited in late summer and it was the perfect way to see the lake at its most peaceful. There are plenty of boat tours to choose from so it’s worth choosing carefully. This is an experience you’ll want to get right.
I booked a 2.5-hour private tour. Milan, our captain, has spent years on the lake and was friendly, knowledgeable and clearly passionate about the lake, but without trying to give us the hard sell, which I really appreciated.
The fact it was a private tour meant I could customise the route, spending longer in the areas I wanted to linger in, which made it feel very special.
Our fast boat was shallow enough to glide through channels thick with water lilies, the perfect setting for spotting kingfishers, hawks and cormorants.
The boat drifted through peaceful, almost Amazon-like scenery, before stopping at Karuč, a tiny fishing village with a gorgeous viewpoint over the lake.
On the way back, we pulled up at a lakeside beach with a diving platform and a small bar, ideal for a swim before heading back to Virpazar.
I’ve done lots of boat trips, from speedboat tours in Kotor Bay to leisurely cruises in Greece and the UK, but this Lake Skadar boat trip stood out for how personal it felt. It was one of the best things I did in Montenegro.
If you’re travelling on a budget, there are cheaper group tours available from around €20 per person. If you can make your budget stretch though, I thoroughly recommend booking a personalised tour.
One thing I’d avoid is the Pavlova Strana boat tours. They’re very long, you spend a lot of time just getting to that area, and the scenery is quite repetitive for much of the trip. It could be disappointing compared to an experience where you get to explore different areas of the lake.
|
Boat trip type |
Best for |
Typical duration |
|---|---|---|
|
Couples, photographers, wildlife lovers. Best overall experience if budget allows. |
2.5 hours |
|
|
Budget travellers and day trippers. |
2 hours |
|
|
Couples, photographers seeking light and quiet |
2 hours |
Hike to the waterfall near Dupilo
The hike to the waterfall near Dupilo was another highlight of my Lake Skadar trip. Although I have to say it took two attempts to get there.
The first time I set off, the weather turned almost instantly. Torrential rain that was not stopping made it obvious I wasn’t going to get far. I had to give up and head back, thankfully, a lovely Montenegrin family passed us on the road and kindly gave me and Mr Flip Flops Included a lift back to Virpazar. The kindness of strangers was overwhelming.
A couple of days later, I tried again, this time in much better weather. The route took me all the way to the Dupilo valley, where I found not just one but two waterfalls.
The first was a gentle cascade, perfect for a rest stop and a quick dunk under this ‘outdoor shower’.
The second waterfall was a proper showstopper, a powerful waterfall pouring gallons of water into a rocky pool. The noise was immense.
The whole walk took two hours each way, and was well worth the effort. It felt quiet and wild as I only saw a few other people the whole time.
The route had a few small signs at key points, but I was glad I had the Maps.ME app. Parts of the route were wet and very slippery, due to the previous day’s rain, so good trainers were a must.
The walk was nowhere near as challenging as the hiking I did in Durmitor National Park in Montenegro. Although I still really enjoyed finding the waterfall at the end of the trail. It felt like an extra special reward for trying to find it twice.
Lake Skadar map
I’ve created a map to help you find the places mentioned in this guide to things to do at Lake Skadar. Click the icon on the top left of the menu bar to view the name of each place.
Kayaking on the lake
One of the most popular ways to explore Lake Skadar is by kayak. I saw plenty of people paddling through the reed-fringed channels and open water, and it looked like a fantastic way to get a slower perspective on the lake.
Sadly, I didn’t get to try it as the weather conspired against me, with torrential rain that meant all kayaking was off. When conditions are really bad, tours and rentals can be suspended for safety, so it’s worth checking the forecast before planning your day at Lake Skadar. I was glad not to be out on the lake with lightning and thunder around.
Kayak hire costs from €5. A good place to head to by kayak from Virpazar is Grmožur (Prison Island). This place apparently only housed prisoners who couldn’t swim so they couldn’t escape, or so the story goes.
Although I didn’t get to kayak on Lake Skadar, I did get to go kayaking in Montenegro at Kotor Bay. I love the different perspective you get from being out on the water.
Bike hire
When I was at Lake Skadar I asked around in several places about renting bikes, as cycling would be a great way to explore the area. Unfortunately, it wasn’t possible during my visit but I was told it might change in future.
Check if bikes are available from the tourist agency Outdoor and More, who are situated at the café Virparis in Virpazar.
Walk to a scenic viewpoint
For some of the best perspectives of Lake Skadar, it’s worth the short climb to one of Virpazar’s nearby viewpoints.
Vidikovac Godinje
Around half an hour’s walk from the village, this viewpoint gives you a wide sweep of the lake and surrounding landscape. The road up is busy though, so it’s not the most relaxing walk.
Once you reach the viewpoint there’s a bench where you can pause and take it all in. I went up at dusk and the shifting light across the water was magical.
There’s also a route leading down towards the shore of the lake from here. I started it but turned back as I wanted to make sure I made it back to the village before it got dark.
Besac Fortress
Besac Fortress is closer to Virpazar, just ten minutes uphill. Head up the hill and look out for the sign on the right. Entry costs €2.
The small fortress offers views over the lake and there’s a restaurant inside the grounds. It’s an easy walk if you’ve only got a short time in the village, and a great way to combine history with a photo stop.
Other places to visit around Lake Skadar
If you have a car, taxi or organised tour, there are a few more places around Lake Skadar worth considering. I focused my own trip around Virpazar because I was travelling without a car, but these are interesting options if you’ve got more flexibility.
Pavlova Strana is one of the most famous viewpoints in the area, with a sweeping river bend surrounded by green hills. It’s hard to reach independently without a car, so you’ll need to use a taxi or tour rather than public transport.
Rijeka Crnojevića is another popular place to visit near Lake Skadar, known for its riverside setting, old stone bridge and boat trips. Again, it’s not straightforward from Virpazar without your own transport, but it’s worth looking at if you’re planning a wider Lake Skadar itinerary.
Godinje is known for lake views and local wine. It’s a short drive from Virpazar, so it’s worth considering if you have a car, taxi or organised tour. If you’re interested in wine tasting you could add it in, especially if you’re staying at Lake Skadar for more than one night.
Can you swim in Lake Skadar?
Yes you can swim in Lake Skadar. I did, and it was a brilliant experience.
I stopped for a swim during our boat tour, at a peaceful stretch of lakeside beach complete with a diving platform and a small bar for drinks.
I wasn’t quite brave enough to leap from the platform, but Mr Flip Flops Included went for it. I stuck to a more leisurely dip and it was a strange but fun experience.
Swimming in a freshwater lake like Skadar feels different to a beach. The water was warm and refreshing but the feeling underfoot was weird. There were all sorts of plants and lakebed textures (or, in my head, scary creatures) that I wasn’t used to.
My lack of river or lake swimming experience just made it feel all the more special. I really enjoyed floating around and soaking in the vastness of Lake Skadar.
Where to stay on Lake Skadar
Virpazar is the most practical base for exploring Lake Skadar if you travel without a car. It’s small, but you’ll find everything you need: a supermarket, cash machine, local restaurants and bars, plenty of boat tour options, kayak hire and walking routes starting straight from the village.
There are also useful public transport connections, with a train station just outside the centre that links Virpazar to both Bar and Podgorica.
Virpazar works well for a slower stay, rather than just a quick day trip in and out.
I stayed at Hotel De’Andros, a great mid-range pick. My room was very comfortable with a large bed and a balcony, although it was more car park views than lake-side views from the particular room I had.
The highlight of the hotel is the rooftop pool and bar. From here the view opens up right across the lake, and I could happily have spent hours looking out across the water. If you stay here, don’t miss heading up to the roof for a drink and a swim. It’s one of the best spots in Virpazar.
Where to eat and drink in Virpazar
Virpazar might be small, but it’s a hub for Lake Skadar boat tours and a brilliant place to try local Montenegrin food. My favourite restaurant in Virpazar was Restoran Crmnica.
This rustic spot is all about fresh Montenegrin cooking. Much of the food comes from the restaurant garden. I’m still thinking about the grilled vegetables here, the best I’ve eaten, served on rice with mega-spicy pepper and crisp garden lettuce.
Mr Flip Flops Included started with fish soup and then took on a huge plate of carp, caught straight from Lake Skadar. We rounded things off with a massive apple strudel, which was just as comforting as it sounds.
The bill was €59 including alcohol, which I thought was good value for the amount of food we had. Rain came in through the vine roof whilst we were there but it all added to the atmosphere and we were able to find a dry spot.
The tiny kittens running about under the tables were the icing on the cake for this cat lover. A truly wonderful evening.
For a quick drink in a unique spot, don’t miss Boat Restaurant Silistria. This is a pirate ship style cafe, moored right in the centre of town.
Lake Skadar FAQs
Is Lake Skadar worth visiting?
Yes, Lake Skadar is worth visiting if you enjoy peaceful scenery, boat trips, birdlife and a slower side of Montenegro. I visited during my car-free Montenegro trip, and it felt very different from other areas like Kotor and Budva.
Is Lake Skadar the same as Skadar Lake?
Yes, Lake Skadar and Skadar Lake are the same place. You may also see it called Shkodra Lake, as the lake is on the border between Montenegro and Albania.
Can you visit Lake Skadar as a day trip?
Yes, you can visit Lake Skadar as a day trip, especially if you mainly want to take a boat trip from Virpazar. I’d stay for two to three days if you can, as it gives you time for a boat trip and other activities, like kayaking or hiking, without rushing.
Is Lake Skadar in Montenegro or Albania?
Lake Skadar is on the border between Montenegro and Albania. The most popular place to visit it in Montenegro is Virpazar, where you’ll find boat trips, kayak hire, restaurants and public transport links.
What is the best base for visiting Lake Skadar?
Virpazar is the best base for most first-time visitors to Lake Skadar, especially without a car. I stayed there and found it practical because transport, boat trips, restaurants, kayak hire and walking routes are all close by.
Lake Skadar: where next
I absolutely loved my time at Lake Skadar. Even with the torrential rain, this part of Montenegro completely won me over. The mix of wild nature, peaceful water, local life and slow adventure makes it a joy to visit.
If you’re planning a Montenegro itinerary, I’d highly recommend including Lake Skadar alongside other inland spots.
After time on the water here, head north to experience the dramatic mountains of Durmitor National Park or walk the shores of Black Lake, one of the most beautiful places I visited in Montenegro.
These contrasting landscapes show just how much variety this small country has to offer, and together they make for an unforgettable trip.