Lake Skadar, Montenegro: How to Get There & What to Do

Lake Skadar, Montenegro’s largest lake, is one of the country’s most peaceful escapes, and it’s easy to reach without a car. Also known as Shkodra Lake, this national park on the border with Albania is a place of vast horizons, quiet villages and water channels alive with birdlife.

I travelled to Lake Skadar as part of my car-free journey around Montenegro, and it was one of the highlights of my trip.

From drifting across waterlilies on a private boat tour to hiking to waterfalls, the experiences here felt worlds away from the busier Montenegrin coast around Budva and Kotor.

In this guide, I’ll share everything you need to know about visiting Lake Skadar, Montenegro: the easiest ways to get there by bus and train, the best boat trips plus where to eat and stay.

You can visit on a day trip from Kotor or take a few days in Virpazar to slow down and really make the most of the lake.

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How to get to Lake Skadar

Budva to Virpazar

One of the easiest and most memorable ways to get to Lake Skadar is by train to Virpazar. I arrived this way and the journey was a highlight in itself.

I took the bus from Budva to Sutomore (45 minutes) then walked 5 minutes to the Sutomore train station and took a train to Virpazar (15 minutes).  It was quick, cheap and fun. 

The train was an old-school model, covered in graffiti on the outside, huge and clunky, with great big comfy seats on the inside. The views along the way were fantastic, a snapshot of rural Montenegro.

Check Virpazar train times.

I’ve done a lot of train travel all over Europe and the UK, as I travel without a car. Compared with some of the more modern trains I’ve taken in Italy and Spain, this one felt less polished but much more unique. The whole trip cost less than a couple of euros, which is a total bargain.

That said, I’d avoid the toilets. The less said about those, the better.

When you arrive at Virpazar train station, don’t expect much in the way of facilities. It feels more or less abandoned with a few worn-looking buildings. But from here, you can walk to the main Lake Skadar area where most people stay.

I made the mistake of walking all the way from the Virpazar train station to the lake via the main road. It’s treacherous, with no pavement and cars whizzing by.  I only found out on the way back that you can cross the railway line and follow a quiet cross-country route that brings you out near the lake. See the map below for where the turning for this route is located.

Lake Skadar from Kotor

To get to Lake Skadar from Kotor you take the bus to to Sutomore (1.5 hours) and take the train to Virpazar from there (15 minutes).

Check bus times and prices at busticket4.me.

Alternatively you could book this day tour from Kotor that includes transport to Lake Skadar, a boat trip and a stop at Sveti Stefan.

Click here to book a day tour of Lake Skadar from Kotor

Lake Skadar entrance fee

When you visit Lake Skadar you will need to pay a fee for most activities that take place on the lake, for example boat tours and kayaking.  The entrance fee for Lake Skadar in 2025 is €5 per day.

Things to do around Lake Skadar

Take a private boat tour of Lake Skadar

Taking a private boat tour is one of the best things to do on Lake Skadar. I visited in late summer and it was the perfect way to see the lake at its most peaceful. There are plenty of boat tours to choose from but choose wisely. This is an experience you’ll want to get right.

I booked a 2.5-hour private tour.  Milan, our captain, has spent years on the lake and was friendly, knowledgeable and clearly passionate about the lake, but without trying to give us the hard sell, which I really appreciated.

The fact it was a private tour meant I could customise the route, spending longer in the areas I wanted to linger in, which made it feel very special.

Our fast boat was shallow enough to glide through channels thick with waterlilies, the perfect setting for spotting kingfishers, hawks and cormorants.

The boat drifted through peaceful, almost Amazon-like scenery, before stopping at Karuč, a tiny fishing village with a gorgeous viewpoint over the lake.

On the way back, we pulled up at a lakeside beach with a diving platform and a small bar, ideal for a swim before heading back to Virpazar.

I’ve done lots of boat trips, from speedboat tours in Kotor Bay to leisurely cruises in Greece and the UK, but the Lake Skadar boat trip was particularly special for its personalised approach. It’s one of the best things I did in the whole of Montenegro.

If you’re travelling on a budget, there are cheaper group tours available from around €20 per person. If you can make your budget stretch though, I thoroughly recommend booking a personalised tour.

One thing I’d avoid is the Pavlova Strana boat tours. They’re very long, you spend a lot of time just getting to that area, and the scenery is quite repetitive for much of the trip. It could be disappointing compared to an experience where you get to explore different areas of the lake.

Hike to the waterfall near Dupilo

Another of the best things I did at Lake Skadar was the hike to the waterfall near Dupilo.  Although I have to say it took two attempts to get there.

The first time I set off, the weather turned almost instantly. Torrential rain that was not stopping made it obvious I wasn’t going to get far. I had to give up and head back, thankfully, a lovely Montenegrin family passed us on the road and kindly gave me and Mr Flip Flops Included a lift back to Virpazar. The kindness of strangers was overwhelming.

A couple of days later, I tried again, this time in much better weather. The route took me all the way to the Dupilo valley, where I found not just one but two waterfalls.

The first was a gentle cascade, perfect for a rest stop and a quick dunk under this ‘outdoor shower’.

The second waterfall was a proper showstopper, a powerful waterfall pouring gallons of water into a rocky pool. The noise was immense.

The whole walk took two hours each way, and was well worth the effort. It felt quiet and wild as I only saw a few other people the whole time.

The route had a few small signs at key points, but I was glad I had the Maps.ME app. Parts of the route were wet and very slippery, due to the previous day’s rain, so good trainers were a must. 

The walk was nowhere near as challenging as the hiking I did in Durmitor National Park in Montenegro.  Although, I still I really enjoyed finding the waterfall at the end of the trail. It felt like an extra special reward for trying to find it twice. 

Kayaking on the lake

One of the most popular ways to explore Lake Skadar is by kayak. I saw plenty of people paddling through the reed-fringed channels and open water, and it looked like a fantastic way to get a slower perspective on the lake.

Sadly, I didn’t get to try it as the weather conspired against me, with torrential rain that meant all kayaking was off. When conditions are really bad, tours and rentals can be suspended for safety, so it’s worth checking the forecast before planning your day at Lake Skadar.  I was glad not to be out on the lake with lightning and thunder around. 

Kayak hire costs from €5.  A good place to head to by kayak from Virpazar is Grmožur (Prison Island).  This place apparently only housed prisoners who couldn’t swim so they couldn’t escape, or so the story goes.

Whist I didn’t get to kayak on Lake Skadar, I did get to go kayaking in Montenegro at Kotor Bay.  I love the different perspective you get from being out on the water.

Bike hire

When I was at Lake Skadar I asked around in several places about renting bikes, as cycling would be a great way to explore the area. Unfortunately, it wasn’t possible during my visit but I was told it might change in future.

Check if bikes are available from the tourist agency Outdoor and More, who are situated at the café Virparis in Virpazar.

Walk to a scenic viewpoint

For some of the best perspectives of Lake Skadar, it’s worth the short climb to one of Virpazar’s nearby viewpoints.

Vidikovac Godinje

Around half an hour’s walk from the village, this viewpoint gives you a wide sweep of the lake and surrounding landscape. The road up is busy though, so it’s not the most relaxing walk. 

Once you reach the viewpoint there’s a bench where you can pause and take it all in. I went up at dusk and the shifting light across the water was magical.

There’s also a route leading down towards the shore of the lake from here. I started it but turned back as I wanted to make sure I made it back to the village before it got dark.

Besac Fortress

Besac Fortress is closer to Virpazar, just ten minutes uphill.  Head up the hill and look out for the sign on the right.  Entry costs €2.

The small fortress offers views over the lake and there’s a restaurant inside the grounds. It’s an easy walk if you’ve only got a short time in the village, and a great way to combine history with a photo stop.

Can you swim in Lake Skadar?

Yes you can swim in Lake Skadar. I did, and it was a brilliant experience.

I stopped for a swim during our boat tour, at a peaceful stretch of lakeside beach complete with a diving platform and a small bar for drinks.

I wasn’t quite brave enough to leap from the platform, but Mr Flip Flops Included went for it. I stuck to a more leisurely dip and it was a strange but fun experience.

Swimming in a freshwater lake like Skadar feels different to a beach. The water was warm and refreshing but the feeling underfoot was weird.  There were all sorts of plants and lakebed textures (or, in my head, scary creatures) that I wasn’t used to.

My lack of river or lake swimming experience just made it feel all the more special. I really enjoyed floating around and soaking in the vastness of Lake Skadar.

Where to stay on Lake Skadar

Virpazar is the most practical base for exploring Lake Skadar if you travel without a car. It’s small, but you’ll find everything you need: a supermarket, cash machine, local restaurants and bars, plenty of boat tour options, kayak hire and walking routes starting straight from the village.

There are also useful public transport connections, with a train station just outside the centre that links Virpazar to both Bar and Podgorica.

I suggest staying at least two to three days so you can take your time with the lake and the hikes. Three days also gives you a buffer if the weather isn’t on your side.

I stayed at Hotel De’Andros, a great mid-range pick. My room was very comfortable with a large bed and a balcony, although it was more car park views than lake-side views from the particular room I had.

The highlight of the hotel is the rooftop pool and bar. From here the view opens up right across the lake, and I could happily have spent hours looking out across the water. If you stay here, don’t miss heading up to the roof for a drink and a swim. It is a top spot in in Virpazar.

Where to eat and drink in Virpazar

Virpazar might be small, but it’s a hub for Lake Skadar boat tours and a brilliant place to try local Montenegrin food. My favourite restaurant in Virpazar was Restoran Crmnica.

This rustic spot is all about fresh Montenegrin cooking. Much of the food comes from the restaurant garden. I’m still thinking about the grilled vegetables here, the best I’ve eaten, served on rice with mega-spicy pepper and crisp garden lettuce.

Mr Flip Flops Included started with fish soup and then took on a huge plate of carp, caught straight from Lake Skadar. We rounded things off with a massive apple strudel, which was just as comforting as it sounds.

The bill was €59 including alcohol, which I thought was good value for the amount of food we had. Rain came in through the vine roof whilst we were there but it all added to the atmosphere and we were able to find a dry spot. 

The tiny kittens running about under the tables were the icing on the cake for this cat lover.  A truly wonderful evening.

For a quick drink in a unique spot, don’t miss Boat Restaurant Silistria. This is a pirate ship style cafe, moored right in the centre of town.

Lake Skadar: where next

I absolutely loved my time at Lake Skadar. Even with the torrential rain, this part of Montenegro completely won me over. The mix of wild nature, peaceful water, local life and slow adventure makes it a joy to visit.

If you’re planning a Montenegro itinerary, I’d highly recommend including Lake Skadar alongside other inland spots.

After time on the water here, head north to experience the dramatic mountains of Durmitor National Park or walk the shores of Black Lake, one of the most beautiful places I visited in Montenegro.

These contrasting landscapes show just how much variety this small country has to offer, and together they make for an unforgettable trip.