Paleochora Crete: A Complete Travel Guide

Paleochora is located on a small peninsula of Crete, which means there are not one but two main beaches within a short walk from the centre.  So if the wind is up on one side you can head to the other side for a calmer day.

Pachia Ammos Beach (west side of Paleochora)

A huge stretch of golden sandy beach with plenty of space to spread out.  Water sports are on offer here alongside plenty of beach bars, sunbeds and umbrellas. 

Carry on to the far west end of the beach for more natural and secluded areas with rocks, the odd nudist and of course the gorgeous sea to dive into.  This is a wonderful spot to watch the vibrant Cretan sunsets from.

Chalikia Beach (east side of Paleochora)

In contrast to Pachia Ammos, Chalikia beach is a rocky affair.  Perhaps as a result, it’s generally less busy than its sandy neighbour. 

Although enjoyably rough and ready, there are still umbrellas and sunbeds for hire and bars to fill up at. I spent plenty of time relaxing on these two very different beaches.

You might well be thinking that’s it for beaches for your holiday to Paleochora.  However, you really are spoilt for choice, as there are in fact loads of other great beaches to explore in this areas of southern Crete.

Keratides Beach

My favourite beach in the region, Keratides Beach is out to the east from Paleochora centre.  To get here you’ll pass by some dilapidated greenhouses. I also encountered some very territorial geese on my trips here.  

Making the effort to walk the extra 10 minutes along the shore will pay off, as you reach the stretch in front of Pearl Cavo bar.  By the time you reach this part of the coast, there are fewer people, a relaxed atmosphere and rustic sunbeds under softly swaying trees.   

Maybe it’s the position of the bar, just far back enough so as not to intrude on the beach but close enough to tempt, or the laid-back and friendly staff, but even if you didn’t set out to have cocktails on the beach in the middle of the day, I defy you not to indulge.

Anidri Beach, Gialiskari Beach and Ammoudia Beach

A triumvirate of beaches are situated at the start of the Anidri Gorge hike, with umbrellas on one side and open space on the other.  Have fun checking them all out on your return from the walk.

There’s a Kantina to fill up on food and drink here.  A free bus leaves from Paleochora.  Check the poster outside Sabine Travel for latest times.

Psilos Volakas Beach

This small beach manages to pack a lot in, a bar, umbrellas, parking and some large rocks to dive into the sea from if that takes your fancy.

Azzurro Beach (Umbrella Beach)

A flat expanse of beach with free umbrellas if you consume from the eponymous bar (which you walk straight through if approaching from the main coast road). 

Further along from the umbrellas, there are some trees that provide great natural shade for an afternoon snooze.

Gramméno/Grammenou Beach

A wonderful and popular beach, with the Gramméno campsite behind it.  If you want an organised beach with small bars and plentiful umbrellas, Gramméno has got you covered. 

However, its best-kept secret is the natural area at the headland.  Walk over from the main beach and have fun exploring the sandy paths and Mars-like rock formations away from the crowds.

After that, take a dip and relax on the much less populated small pebbly bay at the end of the main beach.

Krios Beach

Within easy cycling distance along a flat route from Paleochora.  Krios makes a good place to park bikes and stop for food at the snack bar. 

At Krios you can pick up the E4 hiking path, which crosses multiple European countries, including Greece.  Walk along the beach and go over the rocks at the far end. 

Arrows point the way but they aren’t that clear (or maybe I have an odd sense of direction), go straight up and over and drop back down the wooden ladder onto the remaining section of beach. 

From here, follow the E4 signs leading up and away from the beach over some rocks all the way to Viena beach.  The initial few metres are a little tricky but after that, it settles into an easy to follow trail. 

Viena Beach

A mysterious place, Viena beach is home to slowly submerging marble columns and bits of ancient pottery.  I loved being able to swim amongst the small number of ruins, floating on the sea as my mind drifted across the centuries. 

This historical daydreaming came to an abrupt end though when I got stung multiple times by something lurking under the sea.  Take water shoes to avoid the same thing happening to you.  The fact that this little beach is only reachable by foot simply adds to the mystique.

Elafonisi Beach

I’ve saved the best for last as the fabulous Elafonisi beach is a total delight, a vision in pink.  It has a reputation as one of the most beautiful beaches in all of Crete and it lives up to it.

Glorious crystal clear waters lap at the curved bays and there really is pink sand.  Not all over the place but if you look at the water’s edge you’ll see it.  The shape of this coast changes each year or two as the wind blows sand in and out again. 

If you want to avoid the myriad umbrellas, head in the direction of the lighthouse, where you’ll pass through sand dunes and come out on a beautifully soft sandy beach. 

My favourite restaurants in Paleochora

• The Little Angels – Set in a superb garden area with great service. Fresh fish available – swordfish is a popular option.
• Samaria Restaurant – A family-run restaurant in a peaceful corner of Paleochora town, a little away from the main drag.  Sit out front or in their homely terrace at the back.  Delicious fresh local food at a very reasonable price.  Try the dakos, you won’t be disappointed.
• Aunts Tavern – Another great local place, serving home-cooked Cretan food, located down a pedestrian alley.  Gets very busy so come early, or book in advance.
• Pizzeria Odysseia – A pizza restaurant directly on the waterfront.  Pizza’s are large with a great selection of toppings.  They also do take away.
• Vakakis Family Café – Amazing crepes.  Chocolate sauce and strawberries?  Yes please.  And they are very generous with the chocolate.
• Everest Food Grillhouse – For quick, super cheap, tasty take away gyros.  Grab a couple before heading to the beach for a budget day out.
• Monika’s Garden Wine Bar – If you’re looking for something a little bit classy or for when only a wine will do.
• Agios Bar – Funky music regularly wafting through the airwaves and a cool vibe.
• Old School House, Anidri – A special mention for this restaurant outside of Paleochora.  Given that it’s the only place around after the exertions of the Anidri Gorge hike, they could serve up anything and hungry hikers would be happy, but the food here is spectacular.  Staff quench your thirst with a jug of ice-cold water whilst you decide what to order.  Menus are on blackboards.  I recommend the divine Greek pigs in blankets (bacon rolled around almonds and dates with a hint of spice).  The downside is that they may have ruined Christmas for me, as I’ll never be able to reproduce my own anywhere close to this good.

Day trips from Paleochora

The availability of so many beaches near Paleochora makes it very tempting to do little else but become a beach bunny whilst in Crete. 

That being said, if you’ve gathered together the energy to get active, hiking is popular here and Paleochora has a couple of options for fantastic day trips.

Hike Anidri Gorge (2.5 hours return)

Set off from the back of the car park at Anidri beach.  There’s a small sign marking the start and an abandoned truck on the right of the entrance. 

Whilst not long in distance, this hike requires a degree of physical strength and fitness.  Some sections involve scrambling up and over rocks.  There’s also one particularly tall and slippery boulder, which someone has attached a short rope to to help.

The route is easy to follow as it’s marked with regular red paint dots and arrows, which turn to grey as you get near the end.  There’s also a black water tube running the length of the gorge which will help you stay on track.  Rocks along the way provide good shade for food and water breaks.

Whilst you can power there and back in one go, I recommend walking an extra ten minutes, once you reach the end of the gorge, to go to Anidri village.  There you can take in some well-earnt refreshments at the magnificent Old School House restaurant. 

Exit the gorge via the closed gate (remember to shut it so the goats don’t get out).  Follow the paved track for five minutes then turn right on to the tarmacked road and walk another five minutes through the village until you see the restaurant on your right.

The garden is a tranquil haven to rest your weary legs and savour the view down the gorge, and out to the Libyan sea.  A view that also serves as a reminder that you’ve got to walk all the way back again to get to that shining blue jewel in the distance.  So take your time and enjoy the break. 

Prophet Eilias church

If the return trip through the gorge isn’t enough exercise for you, extend your hike by another 30 minutes to get to the tiny Prophet Eilias church perched high up on the hillside.   

Just before you start the descent back into the gorge, there’s a hand-painted sign saying Chapel.  Follow this through a farmstead area (barking dogs included, thankfully on the other side of the fence).  Occasional signs and dabs of orange or grey paint on rocks mark the way.

When leaving the church you have the option to follow the red marks down the steps at the back of the building to return via the other side. 

This will eventually lead you along the main road to go back to the start of the gorge walk.  This route from the church is steep, slippery and difficult in parts.  Although if that sounds like your thing, it’s quicker than the ascent and goats greet you at the bottom.

Hike Samaria Gorge

Samaria Gorge is one of the most well-known hikes in Crete and for good reason.  The gorge is huge.  Enormous.  Gigantic.  Feel your insignificance in the face of nature as you trek through it.

Take some incredible photos as you hike then use my article to find great hiking captions for Instagram.

Key details about Samaria Gorge

• Entrance to Samaria Gorge costs €5, cash only.
• Keep hold of your ticket as you will need to hand it in on your return.
• Hole in the floor toilets and cafés are available at the start.
• Take food and drink with you, although there area some water taps in the gorge. 
• Stopping areas are provided at regular points along the way, with times between them marked on maps.

The Ferry from Paleochora to Agia Roumeli

• Departs at 8.30 am, returns at 5.30 pm. Check latest timetable for up to date details.
• Journey time is from 1 hour and 15 minutes.
• Tickets cost from €40 return per person.
• Stops at Sougia on the way.

On arrival at Agia Roumeli take a stroll through the village, past crumbling stone bridges and churches, before reaching the start of Samaria Gorge.

The advantage of starting at Agia Roumeli is that you’ll be walking in the opposite direction to the many bus tours that start at the Omalos end. 

It took around three and a half hours to walk from the ferry to Samaria village, including a lunch break and regular stops for photos. Use my article on Greece Instagram captions for photo captioning inspiration. 

I came back the same way without stopping and completed it in around two hours.  It is possible to continue the walk past Samaria village to Omalos but it’ll take another few hours and you’ll need transport or accommodation at the other end. 

Samaria Gorge is nature at its finest.  Birds sing songs you haven’t heard before and water gently tinkles away below as butterflies brush past.  Enjoy hopping across stepping-stones and bounding across wooden bridges pretending you’re in an adventure movie of your choice.

At the end of your hike, if the weather’s warm and you’ve enough time before the last return ferry, take a refreshing jump into the sea. 

The Agia Roumeli beach is rocky and difficult to get into the water from but at this point, you’ll be happy to walk across the equivalent of hot coals just for a chance to cool off.

Best time to visit Paleochora

Paleochora is a beach town so for vibrant evenings and warm weather days the best time to visit is May to October. 

• Sea temperatures are warmest in August and stay above a comfortable 20°C from June to November.
• August is the hottest time to visit, with an average daytime temperature of 27°C.

Where to go after visiting Paleochora

Being the largest Greek island, Crete has plenty to explore. So once you’ve finished discovering Paleochora, head north to check out Balos, one of the Chania region’s best beaches.

As well as visiting Paleochora, base yourself in Chania town for a few days, so you can take a trip to both Balos and the ancient ruins of Aptera.

Whilst you’re on Crete, don’t miss out on visiting the world-famous Knossos Palace. Considered to be Europe’s oldest city, Knossos is steeped in Greek mythology and according to the legend was the home of the Minotaur.

Crete is full of wonderful places and mouth-watering food to experience. One of the best ways to combine both is to go on a food tour with a local. Get Your Guide offers an authentic cooking class in the White Mountains.

You’ll find out how to cook the traditional Cretan way, using only organic local ingredients. Make sure you sample plenty of the delicious locally-made wine and cheese throughout the day. This unique experience all takes place in the atmospheric scenery of Crete’s White Mountains.

If you’re looking at incorporating a trip to Crete into a Greek island-hopping itinerary, I strongly recommend that you add the sublime island of Folegandros to your plan.

It’s much smaller and less well-known than Crete and offers a peaceful and slow pace of life, perfect for avoiding the crowds of nearby Santorini or Mykonos.

Check out more Greek island destinations with my guide to how to get the ferry from Corfu to Paxos.

For another beautiful island destination similar to Paleochora Crete, check out my guide to 5 days on Malta.

How to get to Crete

Crete has two international airports, at Chania and Heraklion.  Ryanair, Easyjet, British Airways and Jet2 all offer frequent flights from London and/or Manchester. I use Skyscanner to search for the best flight prices.

It’s easy to combine a trip to Paleochora in Crete with other Greek island hopping, for example:

• Ferry from Santorini to Heraklion with Seajets, journey time is 1 hour and 50 minutes.
• Ferry from Milos to Chania with Seajets, journey time from 3 hours.

I use ferryhopper to compare and book the best Greek ferry prices all in one place. It saves a lot of time and I find the site very easy to use.