How to Visit the Lake District Without a Car: 3 Day Itinerary

How to get to the Lake District without a car

Regular trains leave London Euston to Penrith in the Lake District.  Journey time is from 3 hours.

So for a long weekend in the Lake District, you can leave on a Thursday night after work and stay in Penrith overnight.  Then head to the lakes on Friday morning.

I stayed in the gorgeous Brooklands 5 star Guesthouse. The breakfast pancakes were delicious and the four-poster bed made it a luxurious start to my Lake District itinerary. It’s a really convenient and comfortable base before heading on to Ullswater. I loved starting the trip here rather than rushing straight to the lakes after a long journey.

If you’re coming from elsewhere, there are also useful train stations in the Lake District at Oxenholme, Kendal and Windermere.

Penrith to Ullswater Lake by bus

From Penrith you reach Ullswater lake via Stagecoach bus number 508.  The bus leaves from Penrith train station and bus station.

The nearest place to get off to see Ullswater lake is Pooley Bridge.  Journey time is 25 minutes.

However, you can stay on the bus and travel all along the western side of the lake, including to Glenridding and Patterdale villages.  Journey time to Glenridding is fifty minutes from Penrith.

Penrith to Ullswater Lake by steamer boat

An alternative option is to take the bus to Pooley Bridge and take a steamer boat across the lake to your destination. 

This is the option I took on my return journey from Glenridding to Penrith.  The boat took one hour, and it was a fantastic way to end my Lake District staycation.

Note that as of spring 2026 the bus stop at the steamer pier in Pooley Bridge is not in operation, so you will need to walk the 5 minutes to/from Pooley Bridge main bus stop.  There is a pavement the whole way so it’s an easy walk.

Penrith to Ullswater by foot or bike

If you are happy to carry your rucksack all the way, there is a designated walking route, ‘The Eamont Way’, from Penrith train station to Pooley Bridge steamer pier.  The route is 5.5 miles.

Penrith to Ullswater Lake by taxi

Uber operates in Penrith and you can also book a local taxi, if the bus times don’t suit you.

Private tour of the Lake District

If you want to see more of the Lake District without having to work out the buses or train connections yourself, this full-day Ten Lakes tour is a really easy option. It’s especially good if you’ve got limited time and want to fit a lot into one day.

Where to stay in the Lake District – my experience of Ullswater

When looking for a good base to visit the Lake District without a car, I wanted somewhere within reasonable distance of a train station, with bus connections and local amenities (supermarket and places to eat). 

I also wanted somewhere quieter than the more well known and very busy Lake Windermere area.

Ullswater lake is the ideal option.  It’s often referred to as one of the most beautiful lakes and it has great bus connections, access to Helvellyn mountain and even a boat across the lake.  Plus it’s an easy option from Penrith train station.

If you travel without a car, the village of Glenridding, at the south of the lake, is a perfect base. I like that it has plenty of hiking trails, including to Aira Force waterfall, and is on the bus route along the lake. 

I also found the local shops helpful for stocking up on picnic items for my days out.  Glenridding has a good range of accommodation so you should find something to meet your budget.

Glenridding accommodation

The Inn on the Lake

If you want your 3 day Lake District trip to feel special, The Inn on the Lake is a fabulous luxury pick. Its setting in Glenridding is incredible, with the hotel sitting right on Ullswater and with beautiful gardens sweeping right down to the lake.  This hotel has the wow-factor.

I’d choose this one for the location alone, but it also has the kind of polished, classic feel that works well for a treat-yourself stay, especially if you like the idea of smart dining spaces and somewhere that feels peaceful after a day out exploring.  If you can get one, go for a room with a four-poster bed, for that even more luxurious feeling.

The Ullswater Inn

For a solid mid-range hotel, I stayed at The Ullswater Inn and found it a practical choice for exploring this part of the Lake District without a car. The location is really handy, with the shops just over the road and the village bus stop nearby, so it makes getting around easy if you’re relying on public transport. My room was comfortable and the modern, clean bathroom was a definite plus after a long day of muddy hiking.

One of the most convenient things about staying here is having the pub next door. We didn’t get any noise from it, but it was very handy to be able to eat there and then only have a few steps back to the room. The only downside for me was a bit of traffic noise from the front of the hotel, so if you’re a light sleeper, I’d recommend asking for a room at the back.

YHA Helvellyn

To keep costs down without missing out on the scenery, YHA Helvellyn is a great budget option. It sits in a stunning spot, high above Ullswater and on the route up Helvellyn mountain. Which makes it ideal if you want to shorten the route up a little bit.  There are great practical touches like a drying room for kit after a day on the fells.

I’ve stayed in YHAs in various places over the years and have found them to be really good value budget bases. One of the things I like most is that you don’t have to stay in a dorm if you don’t want to, as private rooms are available too. That makes them ideal if you want to save money but still have your own space at the end of the day.

If you want a budget base near Helvellyn but don’t fancy a dorm, it’s worth checking whether YHA Helvellyn has a private room free for your dates.

Use my 3 day itinerary of things to do at the Lake District

Day 1 Aira Force waterfall and Gowbarrow Fell

Start your three-day Lake District itinerary in Glenridding with one of the loveliest lakeside walks in the area.

The route to Aira Force from Glenridding takes an hour on foot and follows woods, shoreline paths and bright green fields full of sheep.  You can walk almost the whole way keeping away from the traffic of the main road. 

If you want to shorten the day, jump on the #508 bus instead for a ten minute journey to Aira Force. This is useful if you want to save your energy for the climb up Gowbarrow Fell later on.

At Aira Force, stop at the National Trust café for a quick drink or snack, and use the toilets by the car park before setting off. The lower falls are usually busy, but I found it was worth walking further up to High Force where the waterfall feels wilder and more powerful. You can hear it before you reach it, which adds to the excitement of reaching the top section.

To make a longer hike of it, continue up past the waterfall, following the route to Gowbarrow Fell.

The first part of the climb to get to the trig point is steep, as it relentlessly gets higher.  I got caught in a sudden hailstorm at the top, followed by sunshine for the rest of the hike, which felt very typical of a day in the Lake District.

Remember to pack for all weather before you set out. I’d definitely pack a waterproof jacket for this walk, as the weather in the Lakes can turn in no time. You can see the kind of waterproof I’d recommend here.

The rest of the Gowbarrow hike is an easy-to-follow balcony-style walk that brings you around to the front of the fell, with superb sweeping views across all of Ullswater.  Find a spot to stop and take in all in. 

As you descend back towards Aira Force, you’ll see a white castle-style building on your left.  This is Lyulph’s Tower, a mock-medieval lodge built in 1795 by Charles Howard, 11th Duke of Norfolk.

Walk or take the bus back to Glenridding, where you can round off the day by renting a boat or Canadian canoe from St. Patrick’s Boat Landing (from £27 an hour).

Day 2 hike Helvellyn mountain

If you want a proper mountain day, hike Helvellyn from Glenridding. This is England’s third tallest mountain, so you’ll need to be fit to complete this hike.

The route starts in Glenridding, head up past the Travellers Rest pub and the YHA. There’s a lovely beck running alongside much of the early walk. It begins gently, but once the path steepens, it becomes a serious climb.

I went up via Swirral Edge and down Striding Edge, and it was one of the hardest hikes I’ve done. In early April there was still some ice and snow on the peak, which made it even more intense.

The views were stunning, especially over Red Tarn, but this route is only for confident walkers with proper footwear, food, drink and a decent amount of nerve. Helvellyn is magnificent, but it’s not a casual stroll.

Make sure you carry plenty of water for this hike. I’d strongly recommend bringing a reusable water bottle like this one, as Helvellyn is not the kind of walk where you want to run short.

At one point, scrambling over rocks on Swirral Edge, I made the mistake of looking down and then froze with fear and couldn’t go up or down.  After a little cry and the encouragement of kind strangers, I did manage to make it to the top. 

Once at the summit, it’s not the ‘knife-edge’ path that it seems to be when looking up from the bottom. In fact, there’s loads of room to walk about at the top.  The 360-degree views are astonishing and of course there’s the trig which you’ll deserve to get your photo with if you’ve made it this far.

There are easier routes up Helvellyn from Thirlmere.  I even saw someone on a bike at the very top who had clearly gone up one of these other ways. 

The descent is tough on the knees, especially with so many rocky steps on the way back to Glenridding, via Striding Edge, so a celebratory drink in the village afterwards will feel fully earned.

I even picked up a certificate and t-shirt to mark my achievement from the tourist information shop in Glenridding.

If Helvellyn sounds too full-on, use the #509 bus instead and spend the day exploring nearby Keswick and Derwentwater, or pick one of the alternative hikes below.

For a gentler day with a cultural focus, this half-day Wordsworth and Dove Cottage tour is a good alternative to a full mountain hike.

Day 3 Brothers Water and Hartsop

For your final day at the Lake District, keep things easy with a gentle walk from Glenridding to Brothers Water and Hartsop Dodd.

It’s a good choice for a return travel day because the route is mostly flat and still gives you peaceful Lake District scenery without wiping you out before heading home.

Brothers Water is a lovely spot to pause, and if the weather behaves, it’s ideal for sitting by the water with a picnic before returning. It gives you a last taste of gorgeous Ullswater without rushing.

Don’t take the main road all the way, instead, cross over at the bridge just after the White Lion Inn in Patterdale to pick up the footpath (near Wordsworth Barn).  The walk takes you past beautiful stone cottages, which had me daydreaming about how I could live here. 

Eventually you’ll end up in Hartsop where you can head on to Brothers Water or take a closer look at Hartsop Dodd (which is definitely not flat).

The walk took me an hour and 20 minutes each way.

Back at Glenridding, I might just have saved the best for last.  Finish your trip with one of my favourite car-free experiences in the Lakes, the old-fashioned Ullswater steamer boat to Pooley Bridge.

I loved this journey, travelling the full length of the lake, and watching the different colours of the scenery as it changes, felt like the perfect finale to my trip.

From Pooley Bridge pier, it’s only about a five-minute walk into the village centre, where you can catch the #508 bus to Penrith train station.

Pro tip: arrive around 20 minutes early for the Ullswater steamer boat, as queues form and you’ll want to get a good seat.

Other places to hike at Ullswater – a couple of my favourites

Place Fell, Howtown and back to Patterdale

This is a long hike and could take the best part of a day.  It also involves a steep climb in the first section. 

From Glenridding, walk through Patterdale and cross over the lake after the White Lion Inn.  Continue straight, going left around past Wordsworth Barn then look out for the small footpath sign (it looks like you’re walking up someone’s drive).  

Head up, right, along the fell-side and admire the views of Hartsop Dodd as you ascend.  When I did this hike, there was a ferocious wind blowing.  It was hard to move forwards at times. 

It is totally worth the effort at the top of Place Fell though.  I was overawed by the views of the immense landscape.  The sun even came out, and I got to see not one but two glorious rainbows shimmering above Ullswater.  Moments like this are why you come to the Lake District.

I carried on down from Place Fell, following the route towards Sandwick.  There’s plenty of open space to picnic in along the way.  Go past Sheepfold as you head towards your destination and you’ll see a waterfall a little over to your left.  This was a beautiful surprise for me, as I hadn’t noticed it on the map and I love a good waterfall.

The tearoom at Sandwick was shut on my visit. So make sure not to rely on it being open and bring plenty to eat and drink with you.

The route back is simple, follow the lake side all the way back to Patterdale and Glenridding.

Pro tip: don’t miss dipping your toes in the (freezing) water of the lake at Silver Beach on the way  back.  It required a bit of a scramble to get down to from the path, but was deserted even on a busy Bank Holiday weekend.

Lanty’s Tarn, valley walk to shepherds hut and Glendale Tarn

This is mostly an easy walk, except for the start and the end.  Walk past the shops in Glenridding and up to see Lanty’s Tarn.  On the way you’ll pass a bench with a lovely view of the lake.

It’s then an easy walk all along the valley, following the line of the beck.  However, once you get near to the shepherd’s hut the difficulty dramatically increases.

From the shepherds hut, it’s about another 45 minutes to Glendale Tarn. 

I decided to attempt it on a day when gale force winds were blowing and had to turn back only metres from the Tarn due to appalling visibility. 

The gales also meant I could only scramble along on hand and knees near the top. So I had to put safety first and turn back. 

If you do make it to Glendale Tarn, there are some stepping stones to have fun crossing.

Where to eat in Glenridding – my recommendations

When out hiking for a 3-day break in the Lake District, fuelling up with good food is all part of the experience.  Here are my personal recommendations of where to eat in Glenridding.

The Travellers Rest pub

This is great for descent pub grub. It’s slightly cheaper than the Ullswater Inn.  I really loved the traditional feel of this pub.  It’s got low ceilings and has that warm and cosy air to it, that good traditional pubs have.  I enjoyed the vegetarian chilli, which was very tasty.

Ullswater Inn

I ate here a couple if times and although it’s a little pricey, they have some good offers via the app, so it’s worth downloading it. 

It’s a modern, large pub, with hotel rooms attached.  They serve a good range of food, pizzas, burgers, sausage and mash etc. There’s also lots of outside seating, so it’s ideal for better weather days.

Inn on the Lake

If you want somewhere a bit more special, Inn on the Lake is a lovely choice. The main Lake View Restaurant looks out over Ullswater. They focus on local produce and have lunch and dinner menus that change with the seasons.  This is a place to come for a bit of a treat.

If you love the sound of this place, it’s also worth checking the room rates at Inn on the Lake, especially for a special celebration right on Ullswater.

Ramblers Bar & Candleroom

More relaxed than the main restaurant, Inn on the Lake also has the Ramblers Bar & Candleroom, which is a more casual pub-style place to eat. It’s a good option after a walk, with local ales, outdoor seating and a cosy indoor space with a fire when the weather turns.

Cafes in Glenridding

Glenridding also has a few little cafes, including Helvellyn Country Kitchen, Fellbites and Fairlight Guesthouse and Cafe. They’re good places to keep in mind if you want a quick stop for a coffee, hot chocolate or a warming soup, especially on a cold day in the Lakes. They’d work well either before you head out walking or as somewhere to warm up afterwards.

Picnic supplies

When you’re heading out for a hike, it’s well worth picking up picnic food from one of the two mini supermarkets in Glenridding. I got some really good large ham salad rolls and cakes from the Glenridding mini-market. They’re not especially cheap, but I was very glad I’d stocked up properly before each hike.

Wrap up: is three days enough in the Lake District?

Three days in the Lake District might not sound like much for such a vast area, but I actually think it’s enough to leave you feeling like you’ve had a real break.

This three-day Lake District itinerary gives you a proper taste of fell walks, lake views and cosy pub evenings, without turning the whole trip into an attempt to see everything. 

It’s not possible to see all of the Lakes in 3 days, so I recommend focussing on one area and experiencing that well, rather then trying to tick off all the main Lakes.

Glenridding is a perfect place to stay if you’re visiting the Lake District without a car.  The combination of easy bus links, gorgeous lakeside views and access to loads of walks makes it one of the best bases in the area.

Before you finalise your itinerary, this half-day Wordsworth and Dove Cottage tour is a simple way to add a bit of literary history without needing to sort out extra transport yourself. It’s a good option if you want to balance a bigger hiking day with something gentler.

If you’re deciding what to do next, take a look at my Cycling and Walking Loch Lomond Itinerary for another fabulous UK break by public transport.  Or if you’re tempted by a hiking break in Europe, discover my favourite hikes in Gozo, Malta.