Couples Weekend Away in Toulouse: A Great Alternative Destination
Think romantic city break, think Paris right? Unplanned meanderings through quaint side streets, croissants and coffee in pavement cafes, art galleries, museums, and bohemian bookshops, a glass of wine and a riverside declaration of love as the sun sets. This isn’t Paris though; this is a couples weekend away in Toulouse. Here’s why it deserves to be on your list of weekend getaways.
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Lovers’ lanes
Toulouse is known as La Ville Rose (the pink city), thanks to its abundance of terracotta-coloured buildings and the rose-tinted glow they create at dusk. I’d say it was more of an orange hue, but there’s certainly something in it. The ochre architecture makes a beautiful backdrop, like you’re wandering around your own romantic movie set. And wander you should. So ditch the map and let your feet lead the way down the maze of interwoven narrow streets in the historic old town. Without a car in sight, these lanes were made for aimless strolling, hand-in-hand, with the occasional stop for food or photos.
You might come across the wonderful Terra Nova at 18 rue Gambetta during your ramble. Filled with all sorts of interesting tomes, from economic theory to French literature, this bookshop is the sort of place that, if you’re a book lover, you’ll just want to stand inside and breath it all in. I could have daydreamed away hours in here, books are definitely my weakness. There are worse vices to have (although I haven’t got to the bit about the self-service wine bar yet).
Waterside romance
Not only does the UNESCO world heritage listed Canal du Midi pass through Toulouse, but Toulouse also sits on the river Garonne. So there are plenty of opportunities for some riverside people watching. The sun-dappled Pont Neuf is an ideal spot to stop and get a pic with your significant other (although perfectionists be warned it wasn’t constructed to be symmetrical, as each of the arches are different lengths). For an alternative backdrop, head over the neighbouring Pont Sant-Pierre to take in its gorgeous turquoise railings and old-fashioned street lamps. Who knows, maybe you’ll be inspired to say those three little words during your couples weekend away.
Cultural highlights
Les Abattoirs
If you like your romantic weekend to come with a touch of culture and you have a good sense of humour, cross over the river to Les Abattoirs. This modern art gallery, as the name suggests, is housed in a former slaughterhouse. If the moniker doesn’t put you off you’ll find a wonderful and thought-provoking mix of contemporary pieces. They include Picasso’s ‘The Remains of Minotaur in a Harlequin Costume’. Do check that it’s on display when you visit though, as it’s only on show for part of the year. It’s a cheap date too, at just €8 per person. When you’ve had enough, step around the back to the Promenade du Dr Charles Rose and spread out a picnic blanket for a lazy lunch with the locals. You might even catch a game of petanque in full flow whilst you’re there.
Galerie Le Château d’Eau
Carrying on the theme of re-purposed buildings, the Galerie Le Château d’Eau is also worth visiting. This photography gallery is situated in a 19th-century water tower. It’s a beautiful space with friendly staff. The exhibition at the time of our visit happened to include an image of someone with such a likeness to my late Grandma that I found it hard to tear myself away. I can’t promise you’ll see the family album on display but you never know.
Tip
If approaching the Galerie Le Château d’Eaufrom the Pont Neuf take the second left, down Place Laganne. You should find the entrance almost immediately on your left. Don’t take the first left as you leave the bridge or you’ll end up getting very confused in the bus station, as we did.
Musée des Augustins
Last stop on the art trail is the Musée des Augustins. Pop in for the gargoyles, stay for the large collection of sculptures. During your visit, don’t miss the contemporary art installation by Cuban-born artist Jorge Pardo.
If you need a break after all this culture vulturing, the Couvent des Jacobins offers a chance to take a moment in peaceful surroundings. Pause for thought in the photogenic courtyard, planted with maze-like bushes which peek through the arches as you walk around the cloister.
Stargazing
Paris has the Eifel tower, Toulouse has a full-sized replica of the Ariane 5 rocket. To get your selfie in front of it, head out of the centre to the Cite de Espace. Toulouse is a pretty big deal in the aeronautics world and this space-based amusement park/museum, is a great day out. It makes for a good alternative when you’ve had your fill of art and old stuff. There are loads of interactive exhibits, many of which are outdoors.
Above all, the biggest thrill is being able to sit in a real space capsule. The Soyuz is located under the MIR space station. We arrived in the queue just after cut off (it’s only open part of the day) and nearly missed out. However, a bit of cheeky pleading to a kind attendant goes a long way and we got our moment playing astronaut. Make sure you’ve got your best socks on, as inside the rocket is a strictly no shoes zone.
Along with the hands-on exhibits, there are also a couple of interesting cinematic experiences included in the ticket price. I’m usually not that keen on sitting in a movie theatre whilst traveling but I made an exception on this occasion. Apart from the overly complicated queuing system, I was glad I did. The Imax film offers a fascinating insight into life on the international space station and in the planetarium you’re taken on a beautiful journey across the stars. Both English and Spanish audio are available.
You can easily spend a whole afternoon enjoying this well thought out attraction. The only negative is the overpriced fast food but that’s often par for the course in many similar attractions.
Getting to the Cite de Espace:
- Take a 30 minute bus ride on the L1 from ‘Jean Jaurès’, on Bouleveard Lazare Carnot, to ‘Collège JP Vernant’.
- Then it’s a 10 minute walk, alongside the Parc de la Grande, to the entrance.
Entrance fee:
- €24.50 for adults
- €18 for kids
Where to Eat
Like many couples, eating is usually a big part of our weekend away, and Toulouse doesn’t disappoint. It offers plenty of options for a long lazy breakfast. Try the pavement café Les Illustres on the Place du Capitole. Don’t forget to look up as you walk through the arches of the arcade on this central square. You’ll be rewarded with vibrant ceiling paintings illustrating Toulouse’s history.
For lunch, why not make your own from the delicious local produce on sale in the vast hall of the Marché Victor Hugo food market. The pungent aroma of cheese, meats and fish is not for the faint-hearted but there’s so much fresh food here you’re spoilt for choice.
If you’ve still got room for more by evening time, Le Marocain’s unassuming exterior belies the mouth-watering dishes available inside. The portions are generous and the tagines tasty. I even enjoyed the mint tea – no mean feat as I usually find the experience of drinking any herbal tea is like someone forcing me to drink perfume. The interior of the restaurant is decorated with Moroccan paintings and textiles, which provides a great setting for relaxed dining. It’s also open on a Sunday evening, a bonus in Toulouse, as some places close for the night.
There are at least six Michelin-starred restaurants in Toulouse, including, for example, Michel Sarran. So plenty of options if you’re planning on making it an extra special couples occasion, that is of course if you don’t mind totally obliterating the budget for your weekend away.
Where to Drink
Of course, you could skip the evening meal altogether and go straight to the wine. If you’re as clueless as I am, or a connoisseur, Toulouse has got you covered with ‘the world’s best wine bar’, No. 5, on rue de la Bourse.
Well-known for its novel approach, this is a small cavern-like venue, lined with a huge variety of bottles. Similar to a pay-as-you-go phone, you add credit on to a card and use it to help yourself to red or white. The wine vending machines (a dangerous concept if ever there was one) offer three sizes; taste, half, and full glass. Which means you can treat yourself to a drop of some of the more expensive options. Or just have fun randomly selecting wine because you like the look of the label (guilty as charged). It gets busy on a Saturday night, so prepare to wait to find a place to perch. If you don’t mind crowds this is an entertaining concept and a great way to spend an evening.
Should you book Toulouse For Your Couples Weekend away?
In summary, Toulouse is a great city to explore on foot, it’s compact enough to get familiar with fairly quickly but with a good variety of activities and enchanting scenery to keep you entertained throughout your stay. So you can keep your Paris, give me a weekend away in Toulouse any (Valentines) day. But of course, it’s not just for couples, enjoy a wonderful weekend away alone in Toulouse if that’s how you roll.
If you’ve been to Toulouse, what else would you recommend doing? Where else would you choose for your ideal couples weekend away?
How To Get To Toulouse
- Ryanair flies direct from London Stansted, with a flight time of under two hours.
- Easyjet also flies direct from London Gatwick.
- From the airport to the centre: take the airport shuttle bus, run by Tisseo, (approx. 20 minutes, €8) or the T2 tramway (approx. 30 minutes, €1.70).
Accommodation
We stayed in the Best Western Toulouse Centre Les Capitouls, at 29 Allees Jean Jaures. It’s a well-located mid-range option, walkable to all the main sites in the centre with clean rooms and friendly staff.
Search Skyscanner to find the best flight price.
Which destination is your favourite to visit for a long weekend? Let me know in the comments below.
For packing suggestions for a weekend in Toulouse, check out my ultimate city trip packing list.
Still considering where to go next? Check out San Sebastian Itinerary: 8 Best Things To Do or my guide to Folegandros Beaches – a great destination for couples. If you’re looking for an alternative city break, try my weekend guide to Madrid.
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